It's been a month since everything I'm about to write about happened, so forgive me if the details are fuzzy/non-existent. I've been putting off completing this blog as part of my increasingly delusional denial that my time in London did, in fact, come to an end. Or, if not an end, a pause. But if I keep doing that, it will make it just that much harder to write about because whatever details I still DO retain will get even more fuzzy/non-existent. So. Onwards!
A Play's The Thing: Saturday am I woke up with a faint idea that maybe I would try and go to Borough Market for lunch. Why this did not occur is one of the many things now lost to time (did I wake up too late? was it a financial concern? I have no idea). All I know is that I instead opted to go straight to
Shakespeare's Globe and partake in some afternoon al fresco theater.
On my way to the theater, walking by St. Paul's Cathedral, a bit of debris got caught in my eye. It was excruciatingly painful, whatever it was, and quite unwilling to be flushed out by the copious amounts of tears I cried out of half my face for the next three hours. Beyond being uncomfortable and distracting, I was annoyed that my misfortune also gave me the appearance of being unusual moved by the first half of
Romeo and Juliet which is, of course, the funny half (what? there's a funny half of
R&J, you ask? why yes, yes there is).
Got to the Globe about eighth in line and settled down to try and fix my eye (no such luck) before we groundlings flooded the yard, where I then joined another line and happily eavesdropped on the two American college students in front of me who were having a conversation that I'm sure was identical to one I must of had during London1, doing the exact same thing. Bought and read a program and then secured one of the coveted leaning-on-the-edge-of-the-stage-seats.
I realize now that I've wasted a good deal of time leading up to the play, which (if you're going by my slightly arbitrary formatting) should have gone BEFORE the heading. It happens.
So! Now, the play. This is the second show I've seen at the Globe, the first being
Othello, and both were set in a rough estimation of the Elizabethan period (I say rough to signify my own shortcomings when it comes to positively identifying the period, not to indicate the Globe was sloppy in its accuracy). The stage was littered in baskets and kind of faux-market areas (not unlike the Public production two summers ago) and before the main action began we were treated to a quartet of gentleman singing a variety of period songs, the last of which containing a very funny and anachronistic verse regarding the turning off of cell phones.
The main action then began. I feel unfair judging an entire theater's production value based on only two shows, but I can't help but feel what the Globe does is more "storytelling" than "theater." The tale was very clear, but the acting superficial. Deciding to focus on the teenage aspect of the characters, everything that happened seemed more a case of "Mooo-OO-oom, I thought you said you'd take me and Chrissy to the mall!" and less a case of "My secret husband has killed my favorite cousin and is now banished so I'm contemplating suicide." Sadly, I have no way to type how my favorite line reading went (Rosaline? My ghostly father, no. I have forgot that name and that name's woe.) but rest assured it contained Laguna Beach inflection, a kind of valley-girl arm motion (particularly awkward on a man) and an extreme 45 degree lean backwards. I hope you can picture it, because it was priceless.
Not my favorite moment, however. Oh no.
So we're trotting along through the two hours traffic and we get to yee olde balcony scene. A classic, a standard. Here Romeo is, hidden amongst the fruit trees, hoping to catch a glimpse of his beloved. Ah! He sees her, though we cannot. He praises her beauty, in the majestic language of some of Shakespeare's most famous lines, raising his arm to the raised platform—"What light through yonder window breaks? It is the East, and Juliet is the sun...."
"...."
"...."
....you know what those dots are? Those dots would be Romeo, forgetting what comes after "Juliet is the sun," and so standing in silence with one awkwardly outstretched arm.
Oh, but it gets better.
So our dear Romeo is screwed. He has forgotten his lines smack dab in the middle of one of the most famous speeches in what is surely the most famous scene in Shakespeare. Surely, as a professional trained actor, he will ad-lib or do some stage business to cover this horrendous gaffe? Surely?
Nope, not our boy. Instead, he drops his arm and begins pacing the stage, rubbing his palms together and making exaggerated facial expressions like a teenager who has just crashed the family car and is waiting for a parent to reach the scene. He does this about four times. Four times he figure eights the stage in this kind of paralyzed anxiety, still pulling elaborate faces that do nothing to pass off the moment as a bit of awkward blocking. Finally, mercifully, Juliet rushes onstage, clearly heading the bidding of someone backstage going "Save him! SAVE HIM!"
But we have not come out of the words of awkward yet. Juliet isn't supposed to know Romeo is there, so there is no chance of eye contact for the two actors to establish which one of them is now going to speak. Is Juliet going to put us back on track by saying something? Or is Romeo going to use her appearance to anchor his floundering and get back to it? Neither knows what the other is thinking, so what had been painfully awakward Romeo-pacing-time now becomes painfully awakward Romeo-stands-with-one-hand-upraised-towards-Juliet-while-she-rests-her-face-on-her-hand-and-stares-into-the-night time. This lasts about 30 seconds (and before you dismiss that as not being so bad, stare at your watch for thirty seconds...it's a long ass time). At last, at last! After 3 or 4 minutes of dead silence, Romeo delivers a line to get the scene rolling again.
The line he picks?
"She speaks!"
...oh man.
So, that was my awesome Globe experience. It was a fun day and a good time, but more akin to seeing a really well set up Renn Faire performances than THE GLOBE. Besides one potential new line reading, I didn't see anything to illuminate new thoughts about the play (and, since Shakespeare is so rich, I find that really hard to do), but I didn't feel like my afternoon was wasted. Which is good.
//I had a lot, A LOT of time to kill after the show before meeting up with the Novello crowd. It was that awkward span of too much time to do any one thing and not quite enough to make it worth going home and coming back out into the city, which I often found myself navigating in London. I got dinner at Pizza Express for the last time and then went to Pret since they had free WiFi and I had my touch on me. Eventually I had whittled away enough of my day that I could head over to the Nell knowing it would be a short amount of time before I had friends to play with.
On the Town: Thus the epic last night began. Sure enough, I wasn't there more than ten minutes before some of the bar staff began trickling in, followed by FOH. I don't recall staying terribly long at the Nell, but I chatted to
Will, Kane, Oliver and
Ben for awhile (heard about Oli's run-in with Jude Law) and we got that delightfully weird moment when
Victoria got up in arms about the Donmar's rehearsal space (one of those things that really isn't that funny or a big deal, but will follow her through the rest of our friendship because it was so gosh darn random).
I said goodbye to various people, some for the last time, and then headed over the rbidge with Victoria and
Amanda to
The Pit Bar, my first true bar love. Getting downstairs we found oursleves acing a table filled with high spirited Welsh 20-somethings with
Ni holding court in the center. This wouldn't be at all unsual except that Ni had been absent from
Spring Awakening for some time, "illness" being the reason given out (or at least assumed). Questionable.
We managed to secure a table and then got drinks squared away. I can't remember most of the conversation we had (due to time passing and the unremarkable nature of what was said; not because of any alcohol related side effects), though I do recall spending a fair amount of tie trying to Vic to say hello to the people she recognized from Royal Welsh College. At one point, I was coming back from the loo and found myself stuck in a doorjam with Ni, giving me the opportunity to inquire about his health. It seems a strained rib (or something similar) was the actual reason he was out from the show, which I guess doesn't preclude drinking. I don't actually know that he recognized me as someone who works in the theater, despite that night of revels at Rachelle's, but I had that breezy nonchalant confidence that comes from a pint or two and the knowledge that I would be leaving the country without much delay, so I didn't let his well-covered skepticism dissuade me.
After closing down the Pit we met up with
Naomi and
Charlie at
Bar Italia, a kind of 1950's sandwich bar known for its respectably shabby interior and 24-hr operating times. I chowed down on an overpriced panini while we caught up with what each half of the party had been up to upon leaving the Nell. I had hoped Bar Italia would be more of a diner, with places to sit that we could hang out in indefinitely, but it was much more an eat-and-go establishment, so we were forced back into the night and meandered over to
Cafe Fiori, another return to my early London2 days since it was across the theater from the Wyndham's and where my darling dotty actress line buddy had bought me hot chocolate out of cocern I was going to freeze to death.
Cafe Fiori was also overpriced so, while the rest of the table got real food, I tucked into two large cups of lukewarm tea. All of the waitresses seemed German and disinclined to deal with customers (two facts I'm not trying to link, just state) and that was okay by us since we were looking to kill time anyway. At one point we became aware of Naomi's back-combing twin seated just a few tabled behind us, a slender guy sporting a veritable hedgehog of teased hair. Naomi took this as a challenege and promptly the comb came out, but to no avail- she made met her match. He became aware of this whole scenario, but was of good humor about the whole thing.
For my faux birthday, I had desired seeing the sun rise over Waterloo Bridge, a wish that was once again brought to light over our tea and jacket potatoes. The sky was slowly becoming rosier, and the troops freshly fired up and rested, we went to welcome Sunday into London in style, hunting down a container of juice for Naomi on the way.
The sun was just starting to rise over the Thames we we reached the bridge, and it was breathtaking. The slightest hint of yellow beginning where the water met the sky and then this super saturated, glorious blue creeping over and gradually getting darker. There was this one long, dotted cloud that streatched over the whole thing, like someone had made a swipe with a paintbrush that was running out of paint, and all the buildings still had their lights on. It was gorgeous.
It was breath-taking for another reason, and that reason was the cold. My god, it was freezing on the that bridge. We were all kind of bundled up, but not really, and over the course of standing around and singing songs, mocking MG, plotting to steal a lifeboat, taking tourist billboard photos and dancing in the median we gradually wound up wearing every scrap of clothing we had on us, which included scarves wrapped like shawls and DMT usher uniforms layered fetchingly over club outifts. Awesome.
Naomi was going to leave us after the bridge while we killed that last hour before the tube reopened, but her plan was foiled by her night bus being stupid. Instead, we parked on a bench in Trafalger Square and engaged in that kind of heady, hysterical chatter you can only have if you've been out all night. Thus things like "Hawkman," "I don't like the radio" and the entire French language became unbearably funny to the point of tears streaming down our faces.
And finally, finally, the epic last night was ended at McDonald's, the four of us falling asleep at the table (Amanda left us after the square), counting the seconds until we could hop that train home and collapse into bed.or, in Naomi's case, take a train to Sussex.